Just say "NO" to Crack, (and debris), in fuel tank (also alternative - aux. fuel tanks).

Bud's Fuel Tank Replacement

rparigoris — Sun, 30 Mar 2014 22:40:34 +0000

Bud's Fuel Tank Mod

rparigoris — Sun, 30 Mar 2014 22:40:05 +0000

Using aux. tank to check suction head

rparigoris — Sun, 01 Dec 2013 17:29:15 +0000

Pic of aux. tank being used to test suction head.

Y13-12-01

Aux tank space alllowed to install flap upstop

rparigoris — Sun, 01 Dec 2013 17:24:10 +0000

Y13-12-01

100 LITER TANK FOR RIGHT SEAT

rparigoris — Sun, 01 Dec 2013 17:15:37 +0000

Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mono dolly
From: "David Joyce"
Date: Sun, December 1, 2013 11:25 am
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Priority: Normal
Options:
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Richard, Yes. photo of the build sage attached.
Essentially I made an outline pattern by cutting a
longitudinal midline (of the seat well) partition and two
transverse partitions, analogous to the partitions you can
see in the tank. I sellotaped them together to insure that
I could get the resultant solid shape in and out. The
base is a 5 layer bid splash moulding of the seat pan
with the edges turned up vertically for a couple of
inches. The sides are of high quality foam with 3 layers
bid outside and 2 inside all the joints are made with flox
going about 1cm into each panel edge then covered with
tapes of same nos of bid in and out. There is a small sump
at the back of the system, and also a recess for the
starboard spar pin. All partitions are vented at their
tops and bottoms. It works with a syphoning system that I
bought from Europa - designed for their long range tank.
It is retained by the seat belts with extra multiple loop
straps around the top and front, calculated to resist 10g
in any direction.
Flow rates demonstrated to exceed max 914 consumption. I
had previously by the way left a bit of bid/foam/bid panel
in avgas & mogas for some weeks without being able to
detect any sort of degradation.
Regards, David

On Sun, 1 Dec 2013 15:30:05 -0000
"Richard Churchill-Coleman"

wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Richard
>Churchill-Coleman"
>
> David
>
> That's very interesting and kind of you to share. Was
>it you who also mentioned they have an LAA approved 100
>Ltr ferry tank and, if so, are you able to share the
>details of that Mod?
>
> Kind regards
> Richard CC

Tank cleaning, through vent and sender with borescope.

rparigoris — Mon, 28 Jun 2010 17:52:08 +0000

Ron,
I pull the vent line at the top and inspect with a borescope the fuel tank and its
condition. Replace the rubber hose and reinstall the vent.
I also can remove my sender (Princeton probe with 1/2 inch hole and use my
borescope. If it is clean, fine press on. If not then:
Empty the tank, remove the fuel fittings on the bottom. Install a 1 inch elbow
(with a plug) onto the tank boss and flush with fresh gas, pull the plug and let her
drain. It is about all you can do with your setup.

Bud

----- Original Message -----
From: rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us
To: Bud Yerly
Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 11:53 PM
Subject: Clean your tank annually

Hi Bud

I have a XS mono with 914. I do have a factory float style fuel gauge with reed
switches.

How can I clean my tank?

Ron P.

> Graham,
> How true. I don't think Mr Funnel is even 120 microns. Ultralight news
> tested it at .005, which is about 120 microns but who knows. We are not
> labs.
> I have not been a fan of gascolators as I am in Florida, and have never
> seen water in a Poly tank from sweating, but I am sure it is possible. My
> fuel drains seem to work, and the filters supplied catch the crap and the
> float bowls, have always been clean ((ish) except for in line debris post
> filter I failed to clean once) and the filters allow me to switch tanks
> when the filter begins to clog (noted from the fuel pressure warning using
> my FP-5).
>
> A single gascolator, as you know, is a single point of failure, and many
> have installed two. Why not have two filters and a tank drains as the
> manual indicates. I thought that was pretty sound.
>
> Andy from Andair at Sun n Fun last year told me the same thing about the
> gascolator screen and we shared how to inspect (you can't except to
> disassemble it) and clean them. Since then I don't even consider a
> gascolator. This is a personal preference. Filters are clear to see in,
> easy to change, cheap to buy and good enough for me. A quick disconnect
> makes it a breeze to pull out and take to the bench and service without
> dripping all over the place. If I had a Marvel Schebler Carburetor I'd
> use a gascolator. You can drive a truck through the orifice.
>
> As for old Jerry Cans, cleanliness is next to Godliness, pay attention to
> where you get your fuel, Mister Funnel only is a catch for big stuff and
> water when refueling in the rain. Keep an eye on your filters, clean your
> tank annually, inspect, inspect, inspect, and throw your filters out every
> 25 hours along with the old oil and filter...
>
> Ground your aircraft and your Jerry Can. Those wool sweaters and plastic
> bed liners can generate quite a spark. More on fueling at Rough River.
>
> Thanks for your insight as always.
>
> Bud.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 3:35 AM
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Firewall material vs Canada "fireproof
> material" airworthiness requirement
>
>
> Bud
> an English 914 tri gear had his Andair mini gascolator block. The rust
> from an old Jerry can passed thru the Mister Funnel he always uses. The
> mesh of the Andair is 70micron, Mister funnel 120 micron,(check that
> figure) Just one more obscure gotcha.
> Andair told me their problem was that Rotax specify 100micron and they
> can only source 70.
> Graham
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
From: Bud Yerly
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, 25 June, 2010 23:34:57
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Firewall material vs Canada "fireproof
> material" airworthiness requirement
>
>
> Karl, Dave and Graham,
> I use a Mister Funnel and very clean Jerry Cans. Our local Florida
> stations have ethanol now, and as an experiment am running it full time
> without incident so far. Ethanol cleans the tank very well. After the
> third tank of gas run through preflight I filled the filter. After 1
> hour of flying time I noticed a slight fuel pressure drop and switched
> to the reserve and pressure returned. Clogged filter. Haven't had a
> problem since.
>
> The fuel filters stay clean, but I have noticed all but my post pump R9
> fuel lines (Goodyear) are smelling like a gas leak. Next oil change,
> all the fuel lines are coming out. It seems that the inside of the
> older fuel injection lines (Discount Auto Parts) are swelling a bit as
> well. I have noticed the inside of the drain lines sloughing off a
> whiteish material and am concerned. I flushed my lines with denatured
> alcohol before installation but did not run a small cleaning cotton
> through them. I have not seen water or growth in my tanks or my long
> sitting fuel cans.
>
> Bud
> ----- Original Message -----
>
From: Karl Heindl
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, June 25, 2010 11:41 AM
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Firewall material vs Canada "fireproof
> material" airworthiness requirement
>
>
>
> Dave and Graham,
>
> I am puzzled by all this fuss about fuel contamination. Why have I
> never heard about a car having this problem ?
> I have never noticed anything more than a spec of dust in the Andair
> gascolator. I also buy most fuel from new gas stations where the
> turnover is high, and pour it through a funnel with built-in sieve.
> And I keep a full tank through the winter months.
>
> Karl
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
From: loboloda@execulink.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Firewall material vs Canada "fireproof
> material" airworthiness requirement
> Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 09:42:22 -0400
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>
> Hi Graham,
>
>
> It was a 914.
> We have both tried using filter funnels while fueling, however the
> process is painfully slow, so we are back
> to using fuel straight from plastic jerry cans. We use Shell premium
> which has been very clean, and in Ontario
> there is no ethanol in it
>
>
> Dave
>
> On 25-Jun-10, at 3:29 AM, GRAHAM SINGLETON wrote:
>
>
> Hi Dave
> most contamination gets in when fuel is added. Rust from Jerry cans
> is not uncommon, also algae from old fuel. You really need separate
> filters so that if one blocks you have a get down safely reserve.
> 914s tend to be more of a problem because of the high flow rate.
> Graham

FUEL TANK CAPACITY FERG 2 Y10-02-28

rparigoris — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 05:57:46 +0000

"Slightly foggy diagram of the tank in my machine (see date therein) showing TOTAL LITRES vs. fuel DEPTH in millimetres, as physically measured litre by litre"

FUEL TANK CAPACITY FERG. Y10-02-08

rparigoris — Mon, 08 Feb 2010 21:31:45 +0000

*Note need click "Download photo" to view.
"An early version of the fuel tank. I leveled it, added 1 litre and measured the height of water, and repeated this until the tank was full. I then repeated this with the tank tilted aft 9deg to simulate ground squat figures."

Jeff_2

rparigoris — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 23:27:37 +0000

Jeff Roberts fuel tank repair 2
Karl Heindl wrote:
"Hi Jeff,
from the pictures i am trying to figure out how you accessed the tank. Did you make a large opening in the bottom of the fuselage ? Normally, there are only two round access holes."
Jeff wrote:
"Karl,
During the build which I started at Flight Crafters in 2003 we did an
oval access hole instead of the two as per the plans. Its about 12
inches across. Didn't know at the time I would ever need it but man am
I glad I did. I would think anyone at any time could make that change
fairly easily."
Karl:
"I thought that is what you did, and i wish this would be an approved
mod. my only concern would be: does it not weaken the fuselage ?"
Jeff:
"Karl,
Im not an engineer but I fly off a grass strip thats not so smooth and
I guess my bird is still strong. Maybe thats why the tank was stressed
but until now my Tri-Gear has been great on all the bumps. I would say
the larger hole is fine.
I believe most of the planes that we're started at the build center at
the time / "Flight Crafters" we're done this way but I'm not sure."
Y9-07-25

Jeff_1

rparigoris — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 23:27:37 +0000

Jeff Roberts fuel tank repair 1.
"For those of you that we're wanting to hear the out come of this
subject below is a picture of the repair. I drilled the ends of the
crack. Then rubbed pro-seal into the crack as much as I could. No way
of telling how much if any went in. I then covered the area with the
gooey stuff. "Yuck what a mess". After shaping it for the angle of the
tunnel, I then placed a patch of old tank John Lawton sent me over the
crack with pro-seal on it as well. I kept pressure on it for 2 days as
it set up. Then I sanded the area with 80 grit and laid up a 6 inch, 3
layer patch of bid over the whole thing. Probably over kill but I now
have the piece of mind of knowing If the pro seal ever gave out
(Unheard of) the bid would hold till another repair or a replacement of
the tank. To hopefully help this from happening again I placed two 1
inch foam pads under the tank between the floor and the tank on both
sides. I guess as long as the tank is glassed in it can still happen
but oh well."
"The pro-seal can be found on this page.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php"
Y9-07-25