http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/ en-us Gallery 2 RSS Module, version 1.1.8 Sat, 18 Apr 2026 11:20:23 +0000 120 http://europaowners.org/gallery2/d/31615-8/album282.jpg http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/ http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/Silence+of+the+Lambs.jpg.html http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/Silence+of+the+Lambs.jpg.html
For some reason when Alan was sighting, (and getting dizzy), the Magnetometer, it reminded me of this scene in "The Silence of the Lambs".

One of the many works based on Velasquez‘ Innocent X painting, one sees the splayed carcass as wings, and the box formed by the lines of circumstance and constriction. This imagery recurs in one of the horrific scenes from Silence of the Lambs.

Y10-12-25]]> rparigoris photo Sun, 26 Dec 2010 08:49:15 +0000 http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/DSCN8814.JPG.html http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/DSCN8814.JPG.html
A thin fillet of flox was applied anywhere the JB KWIK did not fully fill and about 1/2" of the edges of G-10 got three plies of thin model Aeroplane cloth after the edges were floxxed. we used Aeropoxy / 30 minute.
Y10-12-25]]> rparigoris photo Sun, 26 Dec 2010 08:42:50 +0000 http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/DSCN8813.JPG.html http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/DSCN8813.JPG.html
This is Alan's view.
You can just about make out the Blue/gray ruler laying on the door sills.
Y10-12-25]]> rparigoris photo Sun, 26 Dec 2010 08:40:37 +0000 http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/DSCN8812.JPG.html http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/DSCN8812.JPG.html
This is a shot at the front of the magnetometer.
Front of plane is on the top of pic.
Y10-12-25]]> rparigoris photo Sun, 26 Dec 2010 03:21:03 +0000 http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/DSCN8811.JPG.html http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/DSCN8811.JPG.html
Here we bonded the magnetometer in place with JB KWIK weld. Registration was easy with the mixing sticks and C-clamps.
You can just make out here where I sanded the bottom of the aluminium enclosure, (left side of pict where the bent ear was protruding down).
The front of plane is at the bottom of pict.
Y10-12-25]]> rparigoris photo Sun, 26 Dec 2010 08:39:31 +0000 http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/DSCN8810.JPG.html http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/DSCN8810.JPG.html
You can see the bent ear on the left side of pict causing more of a gap between G-10 and aluminium enclosure.
You can also see the enclosure having been sanded down on the top.
I moved the identification label to the bottom to allow this sanding.
Y10-12-25]]> rparigoris photo Sun, 26 Dec 2010 08:38:38 +0000 http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/DSCN8809.JPG.html http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/DSCN8809.JPG.html
These two Anti-Magnetometer picts only show a small portion of what was cleaned out. Like I said at least one and a half pints of rust was removed! Not quite sure what the metal is. It didn't look too rusted so perhaps it is Stainless? Perhaps some scouring pad? I don't know how it got in there.
OK, we got tired of cleaning and decided to give the burner a try. Added a little Kerosene but not after having to locate an acceptable drain plug gasket. I happened to have a 70 durometer Buna-N O-ring that seemed to fit the bill. I looked up online and Buna-N is OK for Kerosene and even a little alcohol. I replaced the filter and fired it. It was not connected to our heat exchanger but firing into the hangar. It fired, ran for 30 seconds, hissed a big puff of white smoke and blew up into one impressive fireball when I quickly pulled the plug. We called it a night.
The next day I had my friend Otto who services oil burners came over. He is the one who serviced it a few days before and he found the problem. For some reason the filter was sucking air even with new O-Rings. I happened to have that 70 durometer assortment of Buna-N O-Rings and had one twice the thickness of the one that was supposed to be in there. That thicker O-Ring did the trick, a nice smooth 100PSI of fuel pressure. He also changed the nozzle from a .85 / 60 to a .85 x 70 which seemed to help stabilize the flame a little, (5 degrees wider on each side).
Anyway all seems well now. I will add just a tad bit of Isopropyl alcohol when filling the tank, also some HEAT which is a fuel treatment and wait at least 20 minutes before starting the burner after refilling. 10 years is not a long enough time interval before the next tank cleaning.
I am still on the fence, but there is a good possibility that the rust, water and steel was not the problem!
Y10-12-25]]> rparigoris photo Sun, 26 Dec 2010 08:52:48 +0000 http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/DSCN8808.JPG.html http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/DSCN8808.JPG.html
We kept on getting set back with our Magnetometer install because our heating system was giving us fits.
Wayne was given our 155,000BTU unit ~ Year 2000 and it was used then.
We converted it to 115v AC, (it was configured for DC).
First it quit one cold night. Filter was replaced, strainer cleaned and nozzle replaced. It worked for half a day and quit again. I looked inside tank and it looked pretty disgusting. Alan and I spent the next several hours taking a Kerosene bath, using about a dozen gallons of Kerosene in the process shaking and turning the Kerosene burner in an attempt to clean out most of the grunge. Unbelievable what came out. Every time we thought returns of rust was being reduced we did something like shake upside down and a ton more would come out. We probably got one and a half pints of rust out of our fifteen gallon tank and perhaps 6 oz. of water. The fact there was a baffle in the tank made us dump not only from the filler, but to get on the other side of the baffle we needed to use the drain on the bottom of the tank.
Y10-12-25]]> rparigoris photo Sun, 26 Dec 2010 08:47:34 +0000 http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/Magnitometer+3.JPG.html http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/Magnitometer+3.JPG.html
We selected to put the magnetometer in the ceiling to drive our Dynon D10A. A while back I borrowed Wayne's huge boat compass and rested it on top of the ceiling. Then a pilot crawled in the left side with headsets on. It caused a 1 degree variation. Then we tried with both a pilot and passenger and it caused a 3 degree variation. I am thinking I can setup during calibration swing and try to zero at 2 degrees off. This way it will be off ~ one degree no matter if flying solo or with a passenger.
Dynon is adamant to have magnetometer within 1 degree to instrument in all 3 axis. Bud shoots for within 1 degree, but says those who eyeball them seem to have OK success. Steinair says being off 2.6 in roll and 1.7 in pitch should not be a problem.
After mutilating the aluminium case by bending ears, thinning down areas and of course voiding the warranty, we were able to get within 1 degree and still fit in under the ceiling panel!
Mounting is accomplished with two strips of G-10 with 4 aluminium threaded hexes held to the G-10 with flat head aluminium screws. The screws and hex are JB KWIKed to the G-10, (non removable).
The magnetometer is held to the threaded hex with removable flat head aluminium screws.
Idea is to JB KWIK the G-10 strips to the bottom of fuse and then cover the front and back edges of the G-10 strips with 3 thin plies of model aeroplane cloth.
We used a digital level to adjust pitch and roll positioning of magnetometer. For yaw, we taped a 18" ruler to the magnetometer and eyeballed it.
Y10-12-24]]> rparigoris photo Sat, 25 Dec 2010 10:42:45 +0000 http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/Magnitometer+2.JPG.html http://europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album258/album282/Magnitometer+2.JPG.html
The two green clamps on each side are holding mixing sticks in position to allow easy registration for yaw, and the two orange clamps are registration for side to side positioning.
If you look close you can see our 4 foot ruler resting just above our door sills, it is parallel to the face of our D10A, (yaw).
The aluminum clamps Art fabricated for holding our Balsa conduits in place when bonding came in handy again for holding the magnetometer in place.
Y10-12-24]]> rparigoris photo Sat, 25 Dec 2010 10:43:55 +0000