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EuropaOwners Jeroen Glazener Kit 615 PH-GLZ Engine Installation and Firewall Forward
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Jeroen Glazener Kit 615 PH-GLZ

1. In the... ... 35. Mod 73 36. Chapter 35 ... 37. Chapter 37 ... 38. Speed Kit 39. Engine... 40. New Balls... 41. Upholstery

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Vertex 700 power switch wiring.

Vertex 700 power switch wiring.

Date: 04/23/2009 Views: 1713

Engine Installation and Firewall Forward

Date: 02/05/2017
Owner: Jeroen Glazener
Size: 51 items
IMG_6297

IMG_6297

The ease of getting the engine is inversely proportional to the cost. Just fork out enough moolah to buy a wel appointed family car and within a week the postman drops this on your doorstep.
It also means I have had to sell the family car and now drive a Twizy.

Date: 11/26/2016
Views: 3697
IMG_6299

IMG_6299

Martien van Lievenogen maintains the engines of a B-25 bomber, so who better to help me with the installation?

Date: 12/22/2016
Views: 2512
IMG_6300

IMG_6300

Martien comes up from Eindhoven with some serious hoisting equipment.

Date: 12/22/2016
Views: 2524
IMG_6302

IMG_6302

Building a Europa would be extremely dull if everything went right the first time. This applies to the engine as well it seems. It is delivered without a mounting frame. Call the dealer who tells me most planes use a different mounting so the frame is not delivered as standard. I ordered the engine for a EUROPA, so how difficult can that be? But no problem, if I give him even more money he will send me one.
Turns out fitting the frame to the engine is a nightmare. All sorts of stuff has to come off and even then it is like a Chinese puzzle to get it to fit. We persevere and win.

Date: 12/22/2016
Views: 3011
IMG_6303

IMG_6303

After the frame is on, all the bits like the water pump and wiring have to go back on again.

Date: 12/22/2016
Views: 2504
IMG_6399

IMG_6399

A problem with the water pump is that the lower port position interferes with the engine frame. Has nobody at Rotax ever thought that one through?? Solution is to heat the tube and twist it slightly as shown.

Date: 03/16/2017
Views: 2943
IMG_6305

IMG_6305

The Europa engine frame goes on next. The bolts need to be cut, but with the stbd bottom one it is a close call between shortening it enough to fit in the frame and keeping enough thread at the end. As usual a tap with the hammer is needed to make the difference.

Date: 12/22/2016
Views: 2614
IMG_6309

IMG_6309

Last step is fitting the lot to the landing gear frame. The bottom two bolts in particular are daunting because by this time the holes are virtually inaccessible from the back.

Date: 12/24/2016
Views: 2316
IMG_6311

IMG_6311

Then the engine needs to be aligned properly. Vertically at 90 deg, and slightly offset to the right. This is adjusted with washers. Since you have four sets to play with, no idea how much effect each washer has and in what direction, and rubber mounts, the possibilities to get it wrong and be frustrated are alarmingly high.

Date: 12/24/2016
Views: 2376
IMG_6312

IMG_6312

Since a number of different combinations of washers will need to be tried, you basically have to take the engine off every time. I get around that by pulling the bolts out halfway and carefully inserting or taking out washers. With the tension on the whole construction the washers fall out four out of five times, but it is still preferable.

Date: 12/24/2016
Views: 2457
IMG_6314

IMG_6314

IT'S ON! Another one of those "I might actually get this thing to fly" moments

Date: 12/24/2016
Views: 2319
IMG_6361

IMG_6361

Putting on the exhaust springs. Spent some time thinking out clever gizmos to stretch out and place them, but in the end a screwdriver held at both ends is very effective and quick.

Date: 12/28/2016
Views: 2617
IMG_6363

IMG_6363

Exhaust completed

Date: 12/28/2016
Views: 2454
IMG_6372

IMG_6372

Drilling and clecoing the air duct

Date: 12/29/2016
Views: 2451
IMG_6373

IMG_6373

Riveting stuff

Date: 12/29/2016
Views: 2438
IMG_6374

IMG_6374

Proud puppy

Date: 12/29/2016
Views: 2398
IMG_6376

IMG_6376

The holes for the water cooler don't line up so need some trimming to make them round again

Date: 12/31/2016
Views: 2459
IMG_6377

IMG_6377

Trial fitting the oil cooler. You don't want to do this on your back, especially as the bolt sizes in the manual turn out to be wrong. Same for the water cooler.

Date: 12/31/2016
Views: 2469
IMG_6396

IMG_6396

Another WTF moment.. Things had been going too smoothly. Fitted the air duct, the brackets and coolers with little trouble, so it was time for the Europa Gremlin to strike back. Find that the outlets of the water cooler overlap the muffler. Don't know exactly how hot it gets but it must be more than a silicone hose can stand. The whole lot will have to come off again. Shite.

Date: 03/01/2017
Views: 2352
IMG_6409

IMG_6409

The duct needs to be considerably further back than I thought. That is what you get when the manual shows a grainy photo with the caption "approximate position of cooling duct" with an obsolete muffler, which gives you no guidance at all. Anyway, this is the new position. Should have measured the coordinates for posterity but now it's in I am durn well not going to take it out again. Use eyeball instead.
Another problem is that the space between the footwells recedes and getting the ducting even a few cm further back is impossible. I dont't want to disassemble the duct to trim it so resort to the inelegant solution of sanding the footwells slightly. Looks worse than it is. But be warned- trim the back end of the CD 1 a few mm before riveting on CD 2 and 3.

Date: 04/14/2017
Views: 2407
IMG_6411

IMG_6411

The same for the stbd side.

Date: 04/14/2017
Views: 2464
IMG_6418

IMG_6418

The oil cooler goes back on.

Date: 04/18/2017
Views: 2396
IMG_6421

IMG_6421

The water radiator reinstalled. The bolts in the forward postion of the CD 4 and 5 brackets stick into the sides of the radiator. That cannot be good so I sand them down as far as possible. That stops them from pressing directly but with vibration I think it may be necessary to put something absorbent in between.

Date: 04/18/2017
Views: 2508
IMG_6424

IMG_6424

The first water hose goes on. It is a tight fit between the engine frame and the firewall, which makes it difficult to push onto the radiator. A bit of vaseline helps!

Date: 04/23/2017
Views: 2497
IMG_6423

IMG_6423

Same for the hose to the water pump.

Date: 04/23/2017
Views: 2479
IMG_6425

IMG_6425

Hose from oil sump banjo to oil cooler

Date: 04/25/2017
Views: 2434
IMG_6426

IMG_6426

Hose from oil cooler to reservoir.

Date: 04/25/2017
Views: 2645
Cowling installation

Cowling installation

Opening up all the holes, including one for the extra cooling duct

Date: 03/23/2014
Views: 2586
IMG_5761

IMG_5761

Splash moulding fitted in place

Date: 03/23/2014
Views: 2853
IMG_5763

IMG_5763

Building up the duct with micro and bid

Date: 03/23/2014
Views: 3219
IMG_5765

IMG_5765

Finished duct

Date: 03/26/2014
Views: 2943
Fitting the cowlings

Fitting the cowlings

The two cowling halves need to be trimmed to fit each other and the plane. The manual suggests clecoing them together and adjusting to the firewall. Sounds reasonable enoough, but you dont know how to put them together UNTIL you know how they fit around the firewall, and you can't find that out because the propeller hole won't fit around the flange at this stage. Fitting the top first and then the bottom is also not an option because the flanges are the wrong way round to do that.
The only option is to do it in exactly the "wrong" order and start with the bottom cowling, despite having to work against gravity.

Date: 01/11/2017
Views: 3095
IMG_6383

IMG_6383

Luckily there is one thing you can do without problems and that is trim the back edge of the upper cowling.

Date: 01/11/2017
Views: 3103
IMG_6393

IMG_6393

Getting the bottom cowling roughly in position. Front end needs to be 25mm from propeller flange and centred on it

Date: 02/28/2017
Views: 2739
IMG_6394

IMG_6394

I start off with the back bottom of the cowling, trimming it to fit the flange on the fuselage. Cleco it, then work upwards, making sure that when it hangs loose the front is still the required distance from the propeller flange

Date: 02/28/2017
Views: 2673
IMG_6398

IMG_6398

Same for stbd side

Date: 03/01/2017
Views: 2696
IMG_6656

IMG_6656

End up at the top of the cowling. The last bit of the cowling flange needs to be cut off to get the cowling flush with the firewall flange.

Date: 06/05/2017
Views: 2776
IMG_6655

IMG_6655

Because the cowling will sag without the support needed to fix it in the first place, it is a bit of a gamble whether I have pulled it back far enough. Turns out just right. Phew.

Date: 06/05/2017
Views: 3203
IMG_6657

IMG_6657

Trimming and clecoing the top cowling

Date: 06/05/2017
Views: 3048
IMG_6659

IMG_6659

Rear of top cowling in place

Date: 06/07/2017
Views: 3103
Milspec Series 4000 fasteners

Milspec Series 4000 fasteners

It is clear to me that the Europa method of fixing the cowlings with anchor nuts and screws is a non-starter. Some kind of quick release is an absolute must. Looking at sites like Aircraft Spruce shows you can get receptacles, grommets, retainers etc in all sorts of shapes and sizes. The possible combinations are astronomical and and how do I know any of them are suitable for the Europa?
Raimo Toivio advises Milspec fasteners. Turns out they have a one-size-fits-all adjustable solution.Two in fact. At their recommendation I opt for the larger 4000 series, though seeing how solid they are (these can hold an Apache together!), the 2000 series would probably have done fine. They're also slightly cheaper. The photo shows the parts and tools you get from Milspec.

Date: 06/30/2017
Views: 3053
IMG_6660

IMG_6660

First action is drilling holes for the grommets with the step drill

Date: 06/08/2017
Views: 2798
IMG_6661

IMG_6661

The grommet goes in the hole

Date: 06/08/2017
Views: 3216
IMG_6662

IMG_6662

The grommet is fixed with a retainer ring which is pushed on with a tool resembling a door stop

Date: 06/08/2017
Views: 3128
IMG_6663

IMG_6663

The retainer is popped in with a special pair of pliers

Date: 06/08/2017
Views: 3700
IMG_6664

IMG_6664

Milspec have a special template for drilling the receptacle rivet holes, a fact I somehow missed in ordering. Make one myself. What better material to use for a template than.. a template

Date: 06/09/2017
Views: 3521
IMG_6665

IMG_6665

Riveting in a receptacle. The rivet holes need to to countersunk. The Cherry rivets supplied have a sort of washer on top which comes off as the rivet is pulled. I initially countersunk too deep before I realised this.

Date: 06/09/2017
Views: 3613
IMG_6782

IMG_6782

The 4000 series may be adjustable, that does not apply to the rivets. Those supplied are fine for most of the positions, but where there is a large buildup of glass and Araldite such as at the bottom of the footwell and fuselage joins, they are definitely too short. Grinding down the area helps in some cases, but you can't do that too far, so for the difficult ones I resort to the Europe supplied rivets. If you are considering this solution, it may be worth getting Milspec to send you 10 or so longer Cherries.
Tip: If you mispull the Cherry rivets they are impossible to drill out. The only way is to use a powerfile to sand off the other side, then use a punch to knock it out.

Date: 06/29/2017
Views: 13997
IMG_6670

IMG_6670

Adjusting the depth. The receptacles are initially free to turn in their housing (Tip: use a screwdriver to turn them as far out as possible before fitting). Once the retainer is in you keep turning it clockwise, the receptacle will pull it in and you stop when the retainer is flush with the grommet. Pull a small pin out of the receptacle, it locks and that's it! Perfect fit every time.

Date: 06/09/2017
Views: 3567
IMG_6674

IMG_6674

Marking out the area around the flange that needs to be removed

Date: 06/09/2017
Views: 3417
Look Ma, no hatches!

Look Ma, no hatches!

Because the cowling can now come off and on in seconds, at the recommendation of Raimo I dispense with the the access panels for oil and water. Less work, less weight and less drag

Date: 06/30/2017
Views: 4187
Page: 1
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